Dark lentil stew with horseradish cream & browned butter leeks

by Jessica Seaton & Anna Colquhoun from Gather Cook Feast: Recipes from Land and Water (Fig Tree/Penguin)

Photography: Jonathan Lovekin & Nick Seaton

Little dark green lentils have a mineral look to them – green and grey-ly mottled like the rocks of gabbro or peridotite. Using dark carrots and onions strengthens the theme: the stew becomes like a deep cave of rich earthy flavour, with a clean kick of horseradish cream on the top and an unctuous application of leeks browned in butter. 

Smoked sea salt is a fairly new arrival, but I do love its quality and it seems to work well here, but un-smoked would do fine too. I have left the Seville oranges as an optional extra too – quite a pain to rush out just for that – but if you have some in your freezer or waiting for a marmalade session, squeeze a little juice to finish the stew.

Purple heritage carrots are often found in farmer’s markets or specialist suppliers nowadays. They have a good flavour and a less watery body. The stew will taste very similar with a self-respecting orange carrot but it will look less special. And the look of food can also be a source of pleasure.

If you can’t find fresh horseradish a few teaspoons of prepared horseradish can substitute. The mushroom stock adds a deeper, earthier flavour, which is worth the trouble. If you prefer to use vegetable stock only, it will still be good, but will change the taste of the stew a little. 

Serves 4 as a small bowl or 2 very hungry people

Ingredients

1½ tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, peeled & sliced

1 small red onion, peeled and sliced

2 purple heritage carrots, peeled and chopped into chunky sticks (1 x 3-4 cms)

1 stick of celery, trimmed and chopped into chunky sticks (1 x 3-4 cms)

200g dark green lentils, washed and drained (Puy lentils or Pardina lentils also work well)

500ml mushroom stock

500ml vegetable stock

1 dried or fresh bay leaf

a couple of twigs of thyme

1 or 2 teaspoons tomato purée

smoked sea salt and black pepper

3-4 teaspoons finely grated fresh horseradish root (or 3 teaspoons of creamed horseradish)

3 tablespoons crème fraîche

A small squeeze of Seville orange juice (optional, or any orange)

35g salted butter

8-10 medium slices of the white or pale green part of a leek

Method

In a largish, lidded pan heat the olive oil and gently soften the garlic and the red onion until just transparent – about 5 minutes. Then add the carrots and celery, stir around until slightly softened – 5 minutes more.

Add the drained lentils and stir in the oily mixture.  Pour over the mushroom stock and 300ml of the vegetable stock, tuck in the herbs and bring to the boil.  Cover and continue to boil gently, adding additional vegetable stock if needed to keep a good soupy consistency, for around 1 hour until the lentils are soft and tender (they may be tender earlier but gentle, long cooking will create the necessary soupy texture). Halfway through the cooking, add the tomato purée and season with smoked sea salt and black pepper.

Mix 3 teaspoons of horseradish (or creamed horseradish) with the crème fraîche, stirring to create a loose texture. Taste to assess the punch of the horseradish and add more if you like.

Once the stew is ready, add a squeeze or two of Seville orange juice (if you have some to hand), taste to check the seasoning and adjust. Mash a few of the lentils against the side of the pan to thicken the broth. Keep warm whilst you brown the leeks.

Melt the butter in a frying pan and add the leeks. Stir around to coat them in butter, then pour off the excess butter into a little container. Brown the leek slices on either side in the now drier, hot pan until golden and tender (they will fall apart but this doesn’t matter). Remove from the pan. Add the butter back and heat until the colour starts to change to pale brown. Remove from the heat immediately.

Assemble the soup bowls thus - add the portion of lentil stew, create a little pool of the horseradish cream in the centre, arrange the browned leeks over and then dribble over the browned butter to serve. Nigel served with crusty bread.

Drinks tasted on air, alongside the dish